Gold 585 (14K) and 750 (18K)
I use different colors and alloys of gold.For example, yellow, pink, and rose gold. I want to choose the best material, color and alloy for each purpose. The gold used is 100% recycled. With white gold I use palladium alloys instead of nickel alloys, which are used in cheap products.
It is said that platinum is the king of all materials and in many cases that holds to be true. Platinum 950 is a versatile material and often used in bespoke wedding rings. I use a platinum alloy with tungsten and ruthenium. Platinum 600 Hallmarking is not allowed in Finland but is widely used everywhere else in Europe.
The bright lustre of platinum combined with the hardness of the alloys makes it an interesting material for example men’s rings and it is also reasonably priced.
Palladium is one of the six metals belonging to the platinum group. It is the least dense, making it the lightest of the group, and it is mostly used by me in gold alloys where it turns pure gold into 750‰ Pd-white gold.
Stainless Steel 316L
Commonly known as acid-resistant or surgical steel, this is the material that I am in love with. Versatile and durable and yet so moldable. Contrary to common belief stainless steel alloys do contain nickel. Stainless steel 316L is however made with chromium and molybdenum, both of which stop the nickel from reacting. This is why it is used in surgical applications, for instance in metal implants.
Damascus-steel is best known as material in Viking and Samurai swords. Damascus steel is made with at least two different kinds of steel forge welded together and then folded several times to make the material layered. The layering becomes visible, when the steel is treated with acid.
Two kinds of Damascus steel are in use. One is softer and the contrast between layers is more moderate, but it will never rust. The other one, the one that most people choose, is hardened and the contrast between layers is pronounced. This material, such as in a good knife, should never be left wet. For example after swimming, wearing it in a pool or in the sea, the steel should always be rinsed with clean tap water and dried immediately. Sweat and its acidity can also cause the surface of the steel to turn flat and grey.
Zirconium is a very strong, malleable, ductile and lustrous silver-gray metal. Its chemical properties are similar to those of titanium. Zirconium – not to be confused with cubic zirconia – is extremely resistant to heat and corrosion. It is lighter than steel and its hardness is similar to that of copper, but when oxidized black it is as hard as sapphire.